Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Cambodia Part One - Phnom Penh

Today is our last full day in Phnom Penh and it is Khmer New Year.  This is the holiday day so there is nothing open.  We had planned to go to the palace then the markets but they are all closed so we are just chilling in the hotel aircon (as it is 33 degrees today and about 85% humidity) after a lazy morning cruising the city in our tuk tuk and an iced coffee with condensed milk and the Phnom Penh Post by the waterfront.  A couple of hours back at the hotel before we return to the waterfront to book some bus tickets (unfortunately no boats are running at the moment) before retiring to a comfy cane chair and a few more of these at the bargain price of $0.75 (or $0.50 if you feel like going more local).

Angkor - the pride of Cambodia in more ways than one.


Yesterday we went to S21 and the Killing Fields.  S21 was once a school that when the Khmer Rouge (revolutionaries that took over in 1975) came in, they promptly closed because no-one was allowed public or private education.  They also closed roads, hospitals, transport systems and sent people from the cities with the idea that everyone would go work in the fields and re-establish Cambodia as a farming, self supporting country.

Unfortunately, this school became a centre for interrogation and torture with some pretty gruesome things happening.  It was actually harder than Dachau concentration camp as this occurred in the 1970s and literally in the middle of the capital city.  They think 20,000 people were killed there alone and there is still evidence all through the cells with blood stains on the floors - very disturbing.

One of the buildings (this one housing multiple prisoners in each room) at S21.


We then went from here to the Killing Fields which is where the Khmer Rouge would load people into trucks, drive them out and kill them before dumping them in mass graves.  They found 120-odd graves but after the exhumation of 86, they gave up given the sheer task in front of them.  As you walk around them, you can see pieces of clothing and bones still surfacing everywhere as each time it rains, the soil shifts.  Horrendous.  The sheer volume of people murdered by the Khmer Rouge is highlighted by the stupa erected to house the remains.  with 17 tiers, it is hard to comprehend you are staring close to 9,000 human bodies.  The first 12 tiers are reserved for skulls alone.


 The memorial stupa at the Choeung Ek (Killing Fields)

The stupa up close (where you can see the tiers).

Some of the skulls of the victims in the memorial.


After that, we headed to the Russian Market to lighten the spirits a bit and wandered aimlessly until it became WAY too hot under the corrugated roofing then another amazing dinner by the waterfront followed by the most AMAZING coconut and banana ice cream.


Incredible.  Enough said.

Today (as I said before) is a National holiday so not much to do apart from chill out with a book.  I have nearly turned my brain off (apart from the 4am wake up my body keeps giving me).

We are having a quick shopping morning tomorrow, hit the palace if it has reopened then on a 5 hour bus trip to Siem Reap in the north to see Angkor Wat, the huge temple complex, for 3 days.

Not having been to Asia in a fair while, I forgot how much I love it.  The people are incredible, the food amazing, the atmosphere unique!  Some hate the dirty, stinky, chaotic nature but I love it.  There is only one element that I cannot stand and that is the exploitation of many of the lovely people through the horrific sex trafficking industry (something you can witness with no policing nightly in the tourist areas).

Motorbiking - a family affair.  Note that the record for this trip is 5 people on one motorbike (4 adults, one child).

My time here has given me some ideas for further adventures I would love to pursue in the next couple of years.  Tuk Tuk Touring anyone?  It's quickly becoming an obsession of mine...

Until next time, I hope everyone at home is well and surviving in the cold as we try to survive the heat!!!

xox

1 comment:

  1. Sounds like you're having an amazing time missy!!! Missing you lots and lots, loving reading about your 'ventures! XXX

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